First Day in Paris

Yea, we made it!!   Long trip over but worth it to have travel over with. We step outside the Hotel Victoire and Germaine into a gray, cloudy morning.   It was in the 50s, typical for this time of year.  The hotel is in a really cool section of the city called Latin Quarter.  Full of restaurants, bakeries, and bars.   Carolyn got a map of the city and we decided to start walking. Turns out we're about four blocks from Notre Dame. Having seen the classic example of Gothic architecture in our high school text books, we still weren't prepared for the magnitude of the structure. The stained glass and flying buttresses are astounding for their beauty as much as for the human ingenuity it took to bring this building together. We took photos, wandered the garden, walked to the Seine for a different angle and proceeded on our journey.  

Notre Dame

St John-Paul II

Carvings at entry of Notre Dame

Entrance to Notre Dame

Side view of Notre Dame

We hadn't gone too far when we both stopped suddenly mouths agape,  we turned to each  other and high-fived; the Eiffel Tower was visible on the horizon. Even though we've both seen it in photos, there are few sights more compelling than this structure. That might have been the moment we both realized we'd have to return to Paris one day.

First view of Eiffel Tower

Next, we ended up at the Louvre. The grounds demanded to be noticed, so we took a few photos of the building, not for its beauty, but for what it represents.  The sheer size of this building is a testament to Europe's love of art.  The building goes on and on and on.  We will go inside tomorrow.  It was originally built as a fortress in the late 1100s and then became the residences of kings until finally in 1793 it became a place to keep art collections of royalty.  It is the world's largest museum.  Headed back to hotel after a total of about 10 miles walking.

Louvre courtyard

Finally dinner at Zorbas - the plates on the last page of menu include an app., an entree, and a dessert. Bon apetit!  The prices are very comparable to US dinner prices.  Side note:  Do not use the "Change" stores to exchange US dollars to  Euros.  They charge a huge fee.  Use the ATM machines with your debit card and you get the going exchange rate plus a very small fee.  We lost about $30 using the "Change" store.  Lesson learned.

Fried cheese and salad

Paris Day 2

Stepped out into a glorious morning with blue skies and sunshine. Mid 50s.  This light made all the difference in our photos and in the details of our surroundings ie the chestnut trees were blooming and 
we realized just how pink the blossoms were! A little more sure of ourselves, we returned to Notre Dame to capture 'Our Lady' in this improved light.

We were there early and the crowds were smaller, so we ventured inside. It is free to go in, but would be worth a price if they asked. The interior of the building is overwhelming. The stained glass throughout is like no other.  We sat to take in a Mass that had just started even though we couldn't understand the priest in French, the spirit of something revered and sacred abounds.

Notre Dame

Charlemagne

The Louvre is barely controlled chaos. People from all over the world clamor to see the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, Coronation of Napoleon and so much more.  The crowds all run for the most popular displays and stand 20 deep.  Difficult to get any photos inside without people blocking the view.  Next time, we will allow for a whole day.  It is hard to capture the whole campus of the Louvre in photos because it is so large in structure.  Many buildings were added over time as more and more relics and art work were sent for display.  It is a must see on any trip to Paris.  Also, captured in our photos in the middle of the Louvre courtyard is the Louvre Pyramid which is made of glass panes and metal.  It serves as the Louvre Museum entrance.  After walking thru the Louvre courtyard we came upon the beginning of the Champs Elysees with Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel.  It is a smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe which is located at the other end of Champs Elysees.  Both were built to celebrate Napoleon's victories in the early 1800s.

Louvre courtyard

Louvre Pyramid

Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

Statue in Louvre courtyard

Canal along the Seine River

Rounded out the afternoon with a visit to the Luxembourg Gardens. Created in 1612 by Marie de Medici for the new residence in the 6th arrondissement (6th division of Paris), it is frequented by lots of locals, which is understandable as it is the perfect spot to visit, have lunch, or find peace in the big city.

Although we are still walking and averaging 10 miles a day, the metro line will be part of our day tomorrow as we plan to head to north Paris in the morning and it is too far to walk.

Luxembourg Gardens

Paris Day 3

Another beautiful sunny day in Paris.   We walked over to the Shakespeare Book Company and admired the books. There are still a lot of bookstores in Paris for serious bibliophiles; this one has new books on one side and rare collectibles on the other.  Since it is across the street from Notre Dame there is no excuse not to visit the Bard’s Store. 

The Metro is very convenient, and once we (Carolyn) figured how to read the map of the underground, we took the train everywhere. Today our adventure led us to the Pere Lachaise Cemetery where some of Paris’ most notable figures are buried, including Colette, Balzac, Isadora Duncan, and Edith Piaf.  But the most visited site is that of Jim Morrison. So that is where we headed. Visitors have decorated his headstone with his photo, flowers, and other memorabilia. We were fortunate to be there when a group of high school students launched into Morrison’s, People are Strange. The lyrics are particularly haunting in view of the fact that he is remembered with so much fondness in a country not his own. 

Next we visited Colette’s grave. For anyone who has not seen the movie Colette, recently, you should; you are in for a treat.  In truth, we could have spent the day here; between the solemnity of the tree-lined main aisles and tranquility of these monuments, it is a must see stop.

Colette gravesite

Jim Morrison gravesite

Pere Lachaise Cemetery

Pere Lachaise Cemetery

Returned to Hotel V & G for a rest.  Around 7 p.m., we caught the train to La Tour Eiffel for some evening photos. There was still enough daylight to capture the chestnut blossoms in the foreground from the street. Eiffel won the competition to build this structure for the 1889 World’s Fair.  We read in several tour books of Paris that the best pictures of the Tower could be had by climbing the 284 steps up L’arc de Triomphe which is about 1 mile away.  We made it up after several breath-gulping pauses. When we reached the top, it was superlative. The Tower sparkles every hour for a few minutes and to see that sight it is well worth climbing the steep, spiral staircase to the top!!!!! The Metro stops are at the Eiffel Tower and then one over at the Arc de Triomphe so easy to hop on and off.  Beware of the pick-pockets.  They work in teams and scout out the people who look the most vulnerable.  Needless to say nobody came near us!!!!!

Arc de Triomphe

Spiral staircase in Arc de Triomphe

Sculpture On Arc de Triomphe

Night view of Eiffel Tower

Amsterdam Day 4&5

Took a taxi from Hotel V&G to the Gare du Nord train station.  This station is massive and accommodates trains from all over Europe.  Fortified with a decent latte and Americano, Carolyn and I were good to go.  Thayls, the train to Amsterdam is red and generally leaves from track 8 or 9.  Carolyn paid the extra 50 euros for an upgrade which included assigned seats and food service.  Our steward, Hans, greeted us with hand towels and we relaxed for the next four hours. When will high-speed trains catch on in America?!

The ride through this part of Europe calls to mind what the buildings and land have witnessed.  WWII raged through this region ie Antwerp was vital to the success of D-Day.  Then there are medieval churches in the distance, their Gothic spires rising above the trees.  The train zips by fully functioning cow, goat and pig farms, solar paneled garages, equestrian rings and towns both old and new.  Also many solar windmills throughout the four hour journey. 

We got off the train in the city's main station, Amsterdam Central and caught a shuttle to our hotel, the Movenpick.  It was in the low 40s and the wind off the water was brutal.  Checked in, gathered our dirty clothes and headed across the Amstel canal to find a laundromat.

Boca pub was the first place we came to that had more than bar food and indoor seating.  The place was crowded with a vibrant mix of people who spoke a variety of languages.  Carolyn ordered a burger with three kinds of fries on the side, and I had a salad.  I don't know what it is about potatoes but the Dutch have nailed the perfect fry.  We had the clothes in the dryer before our food arrived, and they were ready by the time we wiped the last of the ketchup from our mouths.  

Amsterdam is a city of cyclists.  Two-thirds of the population use bicycles and motorcycles for their main transportation.  They even have their own lane!!! It is wise to look both ways before crossing a street for cars, bikes, and motorcycles.  And it is a good idea to attune your hearing to horns, whistles, and even horse hooves.  Unfortunately, these narrow cobblestone streets were designed for foot and hoof traffic, so safety means making room and giving way to things that will not hesitate to run you over; Dutch peoples' personalities change when they get behind the wheel....and not for the better.

After breakfast, Carolyn and I met up with our group in the lobby.  Our tour guide, Marieke, led us across the canal to the Red Light District (more on that later).  To get there, however, we had to pass several coffee houses and special bakeries (wink, wink) These are places where you can buy weed as freely as a latte.  You can buy edibles, smoke it, or vape it.  Amsterdam is, in essence, a giant head shop.  The smell of weed smoke hangs in the air, and I imagine during particular times like say Saturday, it would be easy to get a buzz just by walking around the block.  

An interesting fact about structures built in Amsterdam is that pilings had to be dug as far down as 35 feet.  Over the centuries, the soil often shifted due to the sea level issue, causing the houses to tilt.  So don't be alarmed and think you've gotten wasted if you see houses leaning off to one side, you're okay, but the house is leaning.  

Back to Amsterdam's openness with weed ... if that level of unfettered indulgence doesn't bother you, I bet making eye contact with a nearly naked, young woman in a window will burn itself into your memory.  Imagine our surprise when we rounded the corner into an alley and were suddenly standing in front of Stephanie (according to the name on the sign in the window), who was very proud of her....merchandise.  In De Wallen - the Red Light District, prostitution is not only legal, the sex-workers pay income tax, get free health checks, and they are protected by the police.  It's still exploitative and sad.  Tour after tour passes thru the district to look at the workers but starting next year no tours will be allowed.  
Lastly, we ended up in Dam Square which is home to a National Monument honoring the victims of WWII.

National Monument for WWII Victims